Frame Rebuild
(click a picture to see a larger view)
I found a local
restoration/speed shop named Hops Speed Shop in Jefferson, GA.
I stopped by and chatted with Keith a couple of times and decided to let him do
some of the work on the chassis. He cut off the unneeded parts, sand-blasted and
painted the frame. I chose to not powder coat the frame because I'm not
building a real show truck and painting it was about a third of the cost. The pictures below show the frame right
after the painting.
One of the
running board brackets still has to be attached, along with the cab mounts.
Front End Suspension
I decided to go back with a
Mustang II IFS front-end kit. After doing some research online and in
some magazines, I found that there are a handful of manufacturers and a large
number of distributors across the country. I found pricing that also
varies greatly from $1,300 to $2,400+ for these kits. Depending on the
type of restoration your doing, one of the more expensive, "flashy"
front-ends might be more suitable. Since my truck is not being built
for show and will be mostly a weekend driver, I chose one of the less-expensive
models that I found, which should work just fine.
The one I chose came from
Southern Rods in Greer, SC. Southern Rods
sells a wide variety of hot rod and street rod parts. They OEM the IFS
cross-member kit from one of the manufacturers. They wouldn't tell me which one
because of their agreement with them. It
should work fine for my truck. I did find that some of Southern's
parts lines leaned more towards Ford parts instead of Chevy, but they might
be a good outlet for certain Chevy parts that I might need down the road.
The following pictures show the front-end kit and the parts that come with
it.
One thing to note on this kit is
that it does not come with boxing plates, as mentioned in the Installation Guide
provided by Southern Rods. Apparently, the instruction sheet is a
duplicate of the manufacturer's instructions. If you purchase it from the
manufacturer, they would include the boxing plates. Southern Rods does not
include them. This is one of the things that they say helps them keep
their pricing lower, which is understandable. I would have preferred to
have gotten everything that I needed up front or at the very least, had
instructions that were accurate. This kit is far from being a special front-end, but
hopefully it will work fine for my needs on this truck. I decided to go
with the standard height spindles, instead of the 2" lowered option. I
prefer the standard height look better than the lowered version. I also
purchased the upgrade for power steering. It was only a $40 option on the
kit.
Unfortunately, Hop's turned out
to be a bust. I feel like I did okay on getting frame cleaned up and
painted. With the installation of the front-end kit though, it was
different. He charged more than double what I was expecting and then
didn't fully complete the job before I decided to pick up the frame and pull the
plug on Hop's. It also appeared that he didn't have a good grasp on fully
completing the installation and getting everything lined up correctly, so I got
an uneasy feeling about him. At
the same time, while he was working on the front end, I chatted with multiple
people locally that had either dealt with Keith directly in the past or had
heard stories about other people's dealings with him, and the verdict was not
good at all. So, big lesson learned...do more homework before getting
someone to work on the truck. I did make a couple of good contacts through
this process though, so all is not totally.
Rear End
After doing some searches online and
reading through posts on the Stovebolt web site, I found that a rear-end from an
S10 4WD would work as a replacement rear end on my truck. I hope that this
is true because I called around and found one at Hulsey Truck Parts, Inc. in
Gainesville, GA. Luckily, this was only about 10 miles from my house.
This was my first visit to Hulsey's and I found that they have an extensive
supply of truck parts for just about everything that you can imagine.
Johnny was very helpful with answering my questions. He also let me take a
close look at his '32 Ford Coupe and '32 Ford Pickup that he restored himself
a number of years ago. They looked really, really good. Johnny also
supplied me with the shackles, emergency brake cables and a compatible drive
shaft that should work once we know the proper length.
The rear end came from a 2004 S10
4WD Pickup and the drive shaft came from a 1996 S10 Blazer. The gear ratio
of 3.73 should work fine with the transmission that I'll be going with (700R4) once
I get to that part of the setup. Since the
coupling on the end of both the rear end housing and the drive shaft matches, it shouldn't be
too difficult to get the drive
shaft modified to fit. The following are some pics
of the rear end and drive shaft:
My brother
and I got the rear end degreased and cleaned up, then
we repainted it. I also installed new pads and
rotors because the old ones were shot. Here are
some after pics:
Tires and Wheels
As you know, there are tons and tons
of tire and wheel options available. After doing some exhaustive research,
I finally decided on my tire and wheel options. When choosing a wheel,
there are several pieces of information that you need to know before making a
selection, besides the obvious. I didn't know much about wheel specs and
with the help of some web sites and a couple of online buddies, I was able to
find the details. I found this diagram on one of the web sites and it was
helpful. It shows some key measurements for wheel construction that may be
helpful for some (click the picture for a larger view).

I chose to go with Cragar S/S Super
Sport wheels. According to Cragar, this wheel is the "most popular design
in custom wheel history". It was created originally in 1964. I like
the classic look.

Cragar has a large number of distributors, both retail
stores and online. After checking multiple online sites and pricing at a
local store, I decided to purchase them from
www.jegs.com,
located in Delaware, OH. They stock the model and size that I needed and
could ship within 1-2 days. The following are the specs on the wheels:
| |
61 Series S/S Super Sport |
|
| |
Part Number |
617934 |
| |
New
Part Number |
17273602B |
| |
Rim
Size |
17 x 9 |
| |
Bolt Pattern |
5 x 4.75 |
| |
Offset MM |
-13 |
| |
Rear Spacing (back space) |
4 1/2" |
| |
Weight |
40 |
| |
Load Rating |
1580 |
| |
Lug
Nut Type |
E/T |
For the tires, I went with the
Bridgestone Potenza model tires, size 275/40R17. Based on input that I've
gotten from others that have restored a '40 pickup (Thanks Bruce!), this size
tire should work fine on my truck. I've been going to the
Gainesville location of Firestone for a number of years and never had any
problem with my tires from them. Fred Adams is one of the managers there
and he's good to me. I also found a number of good reviews on these tires,
with the exception that they are not good for traction in snow. Since I
live in GA and I wouldn't be driving this truck even
if it was snowing, this won't be a problem for me.
Here are some pics of the tires
and wheels, right after I washed them.
The
Rolling Chassis
After some
good work by Andy and his crew at
Resurrection Auto Body, the chassis is finally
sitting on all four wheels. Here are a few pics
that I took while at his shop: